Unit Summary
In this unit we have discussed the various poultry breeds found in Kenya. We noted that there are mainly three types, that is, indigenous chicken, exotic layers and broilers and hybrid chicken. We also looked at incubation practices and examined the two methods of incubation used in Kenya and their advantages and disadvantages. We also discussed the factors to consider during incubation.
In the next Unit we shall discuss how to manage poultry from the minute they hatch.
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Unit 4
Poultry Management
Introduction
Welcome to the fourth unit in our course on poultry management. In the last unit
you learnt about the different chicken breeds available in Kenya and the three
poultry production systems used by farmers. In this course we shall discuss poultry
management. We shall look at the various methods of brooding chicken, the
requirements of an artificial brooder and how to rear pullets, layers and table birds.
Unit Objectives
By the end of this unit you should be able to:
Describe the methods of brooding chicken
Describe the general broader management of chicks
Apply the appropriate brooder management practices for pullets, layers and
table birds
Conduct routine poultry management activities, such as cleaning and
disinfection, debeaking, pasting, detoeing, vaccination and culling.
Section 4.1: Methods of Brooding Chicken
In this section we shall discuss the meaning of brooding and the methods of brooding
chicken. Before we start, think about the meaning of brooding and then complete
the following activity.
Activity 4.1
Meaning of Brooding
Write down the meaning of brooding in the space provided below
Compare your answer with what you read in the following section.
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Brooding is the rearing of chicks from 1 day old till the time they are ready to leave the brooder at 8 weeks. Chicks are precocial, that is, they are able to walk and feed themselves within hours of hatching. However, their bodies are not able to regulate temperature properly for the first two weeks of life. Brooding provides chicks with the necessary warmth, food and water and helps to prevent chick mortality and achieve maximum growth.
There are two main methods used for brooding. These are:
Natural brooding
Artificial brooding.
Let us look at each method in further detail starting with natural brooding.
Natural Brooding
In nature, chicks hatch after 2 to 4 weeks of incubation by the hen. The hatched chicks provide the stimulus to the hen to change her work from incubating eggs to brooding the young. This method of brooding chicks is suitable if you want to raise a few chicks. The brooding hen provides the chicks with warmth. An average hen can brood up to 15 or 20 chicks depending on her size and the weather conditions. Some hens can easily adopt chicks hatched by other hens. The hen stays with the chicks until they are old enough to feed on their own.
During natural brooding, you should provide food and water for the hen and the chicks. During the 1st week feed the chicks with small quantities of feed frequently, for example, every 2 hours. The feed should consist of chick mash mixed with water or milk to a crumbly consistency. Feed the hen with growers mash and take care to ensure that the chicks do not get access to the hen food. Provide both the chicks and hen with clean water.
You should also spray the cage regularly to eliminate mites and other pests. During the 1st week, give them vaccination against Mareks disease. If you are using a cage or fold, you should move them frequently to avoid parasitic infestation or a disease outbreak
Disadvantages of Natural Brooding
Many broody hens are required for brooding a large number of chicks;
Brooding is not frequent among many laying strains thus natural brooding is not practicable for large poultry.
Artificial Brooding
Artificial brooding becomes necessary when brooding hens are not available or when a large number of chicks are being raised. In this method the chicks are kept in a structure (brooder) in which food and other requirements for their growth are provided. The chicks remain in the brooder for 6-8 weeks after hatching.
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Requirements for an Artificial Brooder
The following are the requirements for an artificial brooder.
1. Litter: this is usually in the form of wood shavings. It should be spread on the brooder’s floor and be able to maintain warmth and absorb moisture.
2. Fresh air: Holes for ventilation should be made on the walls of the brooder to allow gaseous exchange. However the holes should not allow drought into the brooder.
3. Heat source: You can provide heat from an electric bulb, charcoal burner, lantern or a gas burner. When using a charcoal burner, lantern or gas burner, you should place a wire guard around the heat source to prevent the chicks from burning when they crowd around it.
You should ensure that the brooder maintains the following temperature:
1st week – 32o C – 35o C
2nd week – 29.7 oC – 32.2o C
3rd week – 26.6 oC – 29.7 oC
Maintain the temperature above the floor at 32o C for the first week and then lower it by 4o C every week up to the fourth week. If the heat is withdrawn at once the chicks overcrowd at one point of the brooder and this results in several chicks dying. Check the temperature using a thermometer and observe the reaction of the chicks to the heat. Figure 4.1 below shows the behaviour of chicks under different brooder conditions.
Figure 4.1: Behaviour of chicks under different brooder conditions
As you can see in Figure 4.1 the chicks respond to changes in temperature and..
the brooder’s floor and be able to maintain warmth and absorb moisture.
2. Fresh air: Holes for ventilation should be made on the walls of the brooder to allow gaseous exchange. However the holes should not allow drought into the brooder.
3. Heat source: You can provide heat from an electric bulb, charcoal burner, lantern or a gas burner. When using a charcoal burner, lantern or gas burner, you should place a wire guard around the heat source to prevent the chicks from burning when they crowd around it.
You should ensure that the brooder maintains the following temperature:
1st week – 32o C – 35o C
2nd week – 29.7 oC – 32.2o C
3rd week – 26.6 oC – 29.7 oC
Maintain the temperature above the floor at 32o C for the first week and then lower it by 4o C every week up to the fourth week. If the heat is withdrawn at once the chicks overcrowd at one point of the brooder and this results in several chicks dying. Check the temperature using a thermometer and observe the reaction of the chicks to the heat. Figure 4.1 below shows the behaviour of chicks under different brooder conditions.
Figure 4.1: Behaviour of chicks under different brooder conditions
As you can see in Figure 4.1 the chicks respond to changes in temperature and draught in the following ways:
At high temperature the chicks move away from heat source
At low temperature the chicks crowd around the heat source
Normal or optimum temperature
Draught from one side
Too cold
Very hot
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At normal or correct temperature the chicks are evenly spread in the brooder
If there is drought from one side the chicks crowd in one corner.
4. Light: the brooder should have enough light to allow chicks to see food and water. You should use a dim or dull light as bright lights can cause blindness in the chicks and influence toe pecking.
5. Feeders: make sure you have a sufficient number of feeders so that the chicks can feed without overcrowding. Clean them every morning before feeding the chicks to avoid infection. The design of the feeders should ensure that the chicks do not contaminate the feed with their droppings. The various types of feeders are shown in figure 4.2 below.
Linear chick feeder Tube feeder
Figure 4.2: Types of feeder.
6. Drinkers or Waterers: provide the chicks with clean and safe water and ensure that they do not step on the drinker or defecate in the water. The watering containers should have pointed tops to discourage the chicks from perching on top. Figure 4.3 below shows a variety of drinkers used in the brooder.
Figure 4.3: Waterer/Drinker
7. Corners: most brooders are round so that there are no sharp corners. Corners encourage overcrowding and suffocation. If your brooder has sharp corners, you should fit cardboards at each corner to round it up.
We hope you now understand the two brooding methods used by farmers. Next let us look at the general management of a brooder.
4.2: General Brooder Management
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In this section we shall discuss what you need to do before and after the chicks arrive. We shall start by looking at the preparations you should make before the chicks arrive.
Preparation Before Chicks Arrive
If you adopt artificial brooding method, you should make the following preparation before your chicks arrive:
Prepare the brooder 2-3 days before chicks arrive;
Ensure the brooder and all equipment are clean and well disinfected;
Examine the heating equipment and test to make sure it is functioning properly;
Spread 100-125mm litter which has been sterilized in the sun over the floor to act as insulation and to absorb moisture from droppings. The litter can be made of sawdust, wood shaving, groundnut shells, broken maize cobs etc.;
Spread gummy bag on the floor of the broods. This prevents the chicks from eating saw dust (litter);
Spread some food on the gummy bag and some placed in the feeders. This helps the chicks to know where the feed is after they eat up all the feed on the floor.
When chicks have learnt where to eat from the gunny bad is removed.
Warm the brooder to a temperature of 32-350C some 24 hrs before the arrival of the chicks.
On collecting the chicks, inspect them to ensure that:
the chicks are uniform
the chicks are alert
the chicks have no deformities
the chicks do not have any sign of infection.
Transport the chicks in well-ventilated boxes without direct exposure to sunlight, wind or rain.
General Brooder Management after Arrival of Chicks
Once the chicks arrive in the brooder, you should ensure the following:
Start by giving them wholesome drinking water, vitamins, glucose and liquid paraffin. This provides the chicks with energy and helps them to overcome the stress caused by travelling. Liquid paraffin assists in the passage of faeces and prevents pasting.
Feed them on chick mash for the first 8 weeks. Chick mash has 20-22% D.C.P and Vitamin A and D in addition to other feed substances. The high amount of protein & Vitamin A helps in faster growth.
Check on the chicks regularly for the 1sttwo weeks
Follow a regular vaccination programme, that is, vaccinate against new castle and fowl typhoid
Ensure the temperature is well regulated at all times. Chicks should not be chilled or overheated, since this may result in:
Increased mortality
Dehydration
Retarded growth
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Poor flock uniformity.
Dust the chicks with an appropriate insecticide to control parasites.
Control coccidiosis by giving coccidiostat to chicks through water or feed.
In the 6th week, introduce perches for the chicks to perch on.
Introduce grit (sand) in the brooder to help in the digestion of the feed.
Introduce Growers Mash in the 7th week. This should be introduced gradually with a ration of ¼ growers mash mixed with a ¾ ration of the chick mash. By the 9th week the chicks should be feeding on growers mash only.
Provide security against thieves and pests e.g. cats and dogs that eat chicks.
Remove the chicks from the brooder when they are 8 weeks old. At this time they are big enough to be taken to the main poultry house.
We hope you now understand how to prepare the brooder to receive chicks and how to take care of the chicks during artificial brooding. Before you proceed to the next section complete the following activity to remind yourself the important points.
